Wailuku, Maui County, Hawaii
The fanfare of new resorts and resort island development in Hawaii brought obscurity to the town of Wailuku. Once considered as the primary tourist destination in the early 20th century, it has been overshadowed by resort towns like Ka'anapali. But Wailuku is far from being a has-been in tourism - what it lacks in hype, it more than makes up in style and rich history. Wailuku is perfect for the traveler who wants more than a splash in the beach and an obligatory hula dance.
The name Wailuku means "waters of destruction," but contrary to its name, the town is continuously developing and flourishing under the Hawaiian sun. Considered as the census-designated place of Maui, the town holds the administrative operations as the island's county seat. It is blessed with rich waters and tropic climate. Wailuku provides perfect balance between nature's beauty and administrative efficiency.
Found in the northern coast of Maui and west of Kahului, Wailuku is specifically located at the entrance to Iao Valley. Wailuku's land area measures 5.1 square miles with an elevation of 331 feet above sea level. The town has inland water sources through the Wailuku River, which is considered as the longest river in Hawaii. Almost 6% of the town's land area is comprised of inland water sources.
The people mirror the diversity of their ancestry with a population of 12,296 as of the latest 2000 census. Wailuku houses an overwhelming number of immigrants and foreign residents, with Asian, Hispanic, and European races among the people. Interracial marriages are common and give the town a diverse mix of cultures. With the varied mix of individuals and cultures, there is something for everybody in Wailuku.
Wailuku's History
Before the first Western settlers arrived in Wailuku during the early 17th century, the land was still inhabited by settlers of Polynesian descent - the native Hawaiians. Ancient Hawaiian culture dictated that the land must be divided into triangles or "ahupua'a." Physically divided from the foot of the mountains, water flows from two ridges of the watershed to end in the broad coastline. This allowed for fertile lands and sustainable agricultural pursuits for the town's inhabitants. Because of Wailuku's rich resources, the people had no difficulty in finding and raising food for sustenance. The vast ocean provided the people with plenty of fish and fresh seafood. The plains, irrigated by waters from the Wailuku river, produced healthy crops of taro, pineapple, and other Hawaiian bounty. The tropical forests provided the residents with cut wood and livestock. All these were attributed by the native people of Wailuku to their belief and practice of "ahupua'a."
When the Western settlers arrived, they were faced by the brave chief, Kahekili. He led his people to fight against the invaders in the bloody battles of Kepaniwai and Iao Valley. Unfortunately, he was beaten by the chiefs of the Big Islands who had joined forces with the Westerners. Armed with Western cannons and guns, Big Island chiefs bloodied the waters of valley's river with the bodies of Kahekili and his warriors. The place of their deaths was given the name Wailuku - waters of destruction.
Christian belief propagated in the Wailuku, with help from the local royal families. In 1837, they granted property and land rights to Christian missionaries. Wailuku became the hub of trade, religion, and government in Maui. Presently, all major county, state, and federal buildings are established in Wailuku. The town has remained the civic center of the island.
Wailuku's Attractions
Combine the rustic appeal of old villages and efficient government and the result is Wailuku. The town's center and downtown are mostly comprised of small buildings, quaint shops, and good restaurants. There are no skyscrapers in Wailuku, because the town does not need tall buildings to awe visitors and guests; its beauty and the warmth of its people are reasons enough to make anyone want to stay.
With its rich history, there is no wonder that Wailuku has several historical sites that are worth visiting, if not for the history, then for their own beauty. The Ka'ahumanu Church, an old church constructed in 1876, was named after Queen Ka'ahumanu, a local royal who helped propagate Christian belief in Wailuku. During special occasions, the church still gives religious service wherein the hymns and the invocations are sung and delivered in Hawaiian. The historical parish is locked at most times, but the caretaker is most willing to give visitors a tour of the church and its garden.
The Pihana and Haleki'i are two ancient Hawaiian "heiau" or temples built and restored along the roads to Kahului. Chief Kahekili made the Haleki'i temple as his seat of power in the closing years of the 16th century. The Pihana temple, which offers a majestic ocean view, served as a sacrificial heiau. The two heiaus have plaques explaining the design and function of the terraces and walls during Kahekili's time.
Located in Wailuku's Main Street is the grand Bailey House- an old mansion of timber and stone, preserved and converted into a museum. The building used to be home to Edward Bailey, a sugar planter, in 1833 but it now houses artifacts, like leis made of snail shells and necklaces out of dog teeth. A more recent addition is a redwood surfboard used by Duke Kahanamoku. Aside from these artifacts, there are galleries showcasing landscapes of the 1866 Bailey House and Wailuku. The restored Bailey House is open daily for visitors and tours.
If there is one attraction in Wailuku that followed the changes of the town, it is Iao Theater. The theater remodeled itself through the times - from martial arts movie haven to hippie and foreign film sanctuary, slowly decaying with the passage of time. But the present residents of Wailuku did not permit the well-loved theater to go down in ruins. They renovated the theater, which now serves as home to Wailuku's theater group and their productions.
A vacation is not a vacation without sampling the local cuisine. Like the rest of Maui and Hawaii, Wailuku offers visitors a bounty of seafoods. Local hotels and inns also provide guests with the traditional luaus. But for a true sampling of Wailuku's food, fresh is always best. The Tropical Plantation features half-hour tram rides complete with voice-over speakers narrating the history and development of the plantation. Be awed by sights of vast fields of pineapple, macadamia nuts, coffee, sugar cane, papayas, and other tropical fruits. Dine in the plantation restaurant and sample Wailuku's freshest ingredients cooked in the most delicious ways possible. For souvenirs, a package of dried fruits (papayas, bananas, and pineapples) and a bag of Hawaiian coffee beans are the best.
Antique shops and interesting galleries line the streets of downtown Wailuku. A walk through market street means interesting and unique finds like genuine antique woodcrafts and ancient Hawaiian art. Resale shops also sells one of a kind pieces - furniture, clothes, sculptures, and memorabilia. Truly, there is something for everybody in Wailuku.
Wailuku's Economy
The industries of Wailuku are similar to the rest of Hawaii: tourism, agriculture, whaling, and logging. Tourism is still the highest earner for the town, but only during the vacations and holiday seasons. Agriculture is the town's most stable income source. Vast plantations of coffee, cut flowers, macadamia nuts, and tropical fruits provide excellent products. Logging and whaling activities are declining as new businesses are investing in Wailuku.
Long thought of as a dead economy, the Wailuku economy is steadily rising with the help of the state government and business individuals. Talks to revive the old Wailuku economy are underway. New investors are coming and staying in Wailuku as proof of their intent to invest and generate a livelier economy for the town. The 2000 Redevelopment Plan for Wailuku promoted multifamily housing for the residents and the building of new establishments. Sales in real estate are increasing as new business keep pouring in. At this rate, the revival of the old Wailuku economic grandeur is a possibility nearing completion.
The future looks bright for Wailuku and its people. Touted as a vacation place, a permanent home, a civic center, and a business mecca, Wailuku looks to its roots and pushes forward with renewed hope.
Wailuku Statistics:
Population: 12,296Households: 4,535
Median resident age: 38.5 years
Median household income: $45,587
Median house value: $247,100
Land area: 5.1 square miles
Elevation: 331 feet
Latitude: 20°53'N
Longitude: 156°30'W
Zip code: 96793
County: Maui

